The Top Pubs in Brindisi

There was a time when a city ordinance prohibited any pubs from opening in Brindisi. Incredible though it may sound, there was no place in this Adriatic port town where you could go for a beer. If memory serves me correctly the reasoning was rooted in illegal activity (spelled “m-a-f-i-a”), because back in the mid-1980’s there WERE several nightclubs and pubs doing brisk business (of one kind or another) but those shut down. Finally about 3 years ago, a new administration lifted the ban and new establishments started popping up all over town. True to any city – some of Brindisi’s pubs lasted and some didn’t. Here’s my top three choices of great pubs where you can find a cold beer, a large screen TV, some conversation and some music (not necessarily in that order). Far from being Expat or tourist hangouts, Brindisi’s local element has embraced these locales and christened them as full-fledge nightspots.

First up, for reasons totally self-serving (which means it’s a stones-throw from my house) is Big Bens Old English Bar (Via Carmine 14, tel: 0831-584206) One of the newer pubs in Brindisi, Big Bens sprung up when the city ordinance changed. Originally, Big Bens was located down at the port in a remote little corner. It closed down temporarily and re-surfaced on Via carmine, one of the main arteries that cuts through Brindisi and leads downtown. Decorated in pseudo-English trappings that don’t entirely make sense – namely because it seems like the owner couldn’t decide if he wanted to follow a British or Scottish motif – Big Ben’s is low-key and manages to stay out of trouble. They offer Heineken and Lowenbrau on tap and offer American beer (Budweiser) as an import. Go figure. Sandwiches and finger foods round out a pretty tame menu. But hey, did you come to eat or drink? Local brews run about 3 euro a bottle and the big name brands go from 5-7 euro. Opens at 8pm and closes around 2:30. Like all of Brindisi, forget about driving to Big Bens because there is no parking on Via Carmine. So leave your rental at your hotel and walk.

The Buena Vista Social Club is next (Via Appia 76, tel: 0831-590096) this pub has nothing in common with the movie of the same name, but it has a great location, nestled snuggly behind the twin Roman Columns which sit at the top of the steps of the Appian Way. Its simple exterior (see photo) hides the beauty of what’s waiting inside: cushy chairs and couches, lots of palms and music that is soft on the ears. A full selection of beer and liquor, as well as sandwiches and other appetizers are on hand. This pub is kind of pricey and for that reason you’ll see most patrons order large mixed drinks (like those silly ones with an umbrella in them) and milk those things all night. The pub also offers a great selection of ice cream – which somehow seems out of place for a “pub”âÂ?¦but a not a place where you can get umbrellas in your drink. One of the current “places to be” in Brindisi for night owls, you wouldn’t dare go to the Buena vista Social Club before midnight. That is, unless you have kids and need to get up early the next morning for work. For the rest of us mortals who don’t care about making an impression, the Buena vista Social Club opens it’s doors at 7pm.

Next on the list is the Pub Argonese (LungoMare Regina Margherita 97, tel: 0831-412088), I like to thin of this pub as the distant cousin of Big Ben’s. In fact, I walked down there prior to writing this article and the more I think of it, the more it seems like Big Bens used to be right next door. Maybe that’s why Big Ben’s moved. Anyway – the Pub Argonese enjoys that same British flavoured interior of deep wood and leather, dim lights and a long bar to rest your elbows on. The Pub Argonese also has a dozen or so booths and tables inside and has recently added an “outdoor lounge” which sits right on the water’s edge. Another happenin’ place that went from moderate business to standing-room only, courtesy of cheap drinks and word-of-mouth. Good news: lots of young professionals in search of fun. Bad news; on the far end of the port and really out of the mainstream. Really starts hopping around 1:00am and closes around 4:00 in the morning. Not bad for a place that offers beer and music and a menu that’s nothing-to-brag about.

Heck, if you frequent just these three locales you can map out you entire evening. Enough of a walk in between each so you can get a second or third wind. At the very least, one or more of these pubs can provide a backdrop to killing a few hours before you hop the ferry to Corfu, Greece.

Here’s looking at you, kid…and try not to spill your drink.