Tools and Materials for Shelving
Quick and easy shelving ideas requiring few- if any – tools and only inexpensive materials. Some of these ideas are classics, others more innovative. Read some of these ideas below then feel free to combine concepts or invent your own.
Crates and boxes, wooden or plastic, are the simplest of simple shelving ideas: just stack them against a wall. To be fancy, you might sand and finish wooden boxes, or fasten them to a piece of plywood hung by screws driven into wall studs.
Blocks and boards, the student’s perennial favorite, are simple systems of boards spaced by bricks, masonry blocks, or anything else rectangular and hard. The shelves can be anything from rough old barnwood to finished 2 by 12s – use stock sizes or cut the boards to length. Some words of caution: always stack blocks in a straight, even column. If the stack exceeds 5′ in height, “step” the unit in towards the wall or anchor the top shelf to the wall.
Brackets come in a kaleidoscope of styles and finishes. They’re the simplest way to anchor individual shelves to a wall. Brackets with braces or gussets are the strongest. Angle irons can be inverted so that a shelf rests inside the bend. Galvanized continuous brackets, normally associated with utility shelves, can do service in living quarters, too. Often used for garage and basement shelving, these brackets usually support three shelves per pair. Brackets are attached to wall studs, if possible. Most brackets should be spaced at 24″ or 32″ intervals, depending on shelf load and stud placement.
Chimney and drainpipe tiles make self-contained, ready-to-use alcoves. Try square or rectangular chimney tiles to display large books or antiques, and drainpipe tiles for storing wine, letters, or odds and ends. Design a wooden containing frame, or tie tiles together with rope. Chimney and drainpipe tiles come in a variety of lengths. If you need to cut one, use a circular saw with masonry blade, or have it done for you by your supplier.
Baskets and textiles are effective for storing unwieldy work supplies such as yarn, brushes, tape, and scissors. Baskets or rice scoops straight from the basket shop can be hung on the wall. Sew canvas into pockets and hang them up, or make it into slings and loop them over shelf brackets.
Support clips, metal or plastic, turn shelf boards into an erector set. T-clips, L-clips, and X-clips make reinforced butt joints (you must still cut boards to size, sand, and finish). Two clips – one each in front and in back – slip over ¾” or 5/8″ lumber at each joint, and are locked in place by nailing through pre-punched holes. If you use screws to mount the clips, you can take the unit apart for moving or storage. You can also rebuild it in a different form to suit changing needs.
Ropes and chains hold shelves up like playground swings; units hang free or attach to the wall. Drill a hole through each shelf corner, then thread with rope or chain. Rope is knotted or clamped to secure shelves; chain must be wedged with a wood scrap or secured with a bolt, nut, and washer. Attach each unit to the ceiling (or wall, if you choose) with eye screws; chains connect to the eye screws with S-hooks.
Cleats and ledgers form narrow but secure perches for shelves. Wooden cleats, made of 1 by 2 trim or molding, support shelves spanning a closet, cabinet, or other defined space. Cleats along open walls – called ledgers – support the back edges of shelves; front support is still needed. L-shaped aluminum moldings make perfect cleats or ledgers.
Windowsill shelves are simple extensions of the sill itself; just attach a wider board with countersunk woodscrews. For shelves over twice the original sill width, reinforce with brackets or angle irons – whatever window moldings will allow.
