Top Stitching Tips and Techniques
Always start with a new needle, or set of needles, when top stitching. Use a gauge to decide how far the set of stitches should be from one another. Or, use a guide that is on the machine. For example, watch the edge of the fabric and make sure it stays next to the edge of the presser foot, or align the side of the fabric with one of the marks on your feed dog plate. It’s very important that you use some sort of gauge rather than trying to eye the needle or threads for judging distances.
Choose the proper foot. If you have a double-needle setup, that’s perfect. If not, you’ll have to stitch once, then stitch again, beside the original stitching. To make it easier, some people use a disappearing marker to mark the position of the intended seams. After sewing over the top of the markings, they will disappear after several hours.
To make top stitching look it’s best choose a color of thread that is slightly darker than the color of the garment. Choose a smaller stitch for delicate fabrics, a longer stitch for durable materials, but always test to see what the stitching will look like on a fabric scrap. For delicate garments you may want to use a piece of interfacing under the stitches to make it easier to sew without error. After sewing the stitches, trim the interfacing very close to the stitches. If the fabric is really thin, and will allow the interfacing to be seen through the garment, opt for spray starch instead. Spray the top stitch area with starch, allow to sit for five minutes, then stitch.
If the area you are top stitching has a lot of curves it’s best to use a smaller stitch. Smaller stitches won’t look as crooked as a longer stitch, if you make minor errors. Stitch slowly – that’s one of the most important tips to remember. Better to have a perfect garment that took a little longer to sew than a quick garment that’s sloppy.
Never back stitch or tie threads together on the top stitch. These errors will stand out and make the entire garment look less than perfect. Always make sure you have enough thread before starting an area of top stitching, but if you should run out, there’s a technique to perform to keep from showing where the new thread begins. As soon as you see you’re running out, stop and go backward for one stitch, then forward for one stitch. Trim the thread end very close to the fabric. Thread the new spool on and position needle at the beginning of the last thread. Go forward one stitch, then back one stitch, then resume sewing. It’s best to start a new thread someplace where it’s not so noticeable, like on a shoulder seam, or underarm seam.
Some general tips: Use a heavy needle, well lubricated, as well as long stitches to sew thick fabrics. In addition, tighten the top thread somewhat. For fine fabrics use a very small needle and smaller stitches. Press seams open before beginning any top stitch job. Hold thread tails when starting to sew. This will keep the fabric from bunching.
Besides the above tips, the best way to insure you’ll have perfect top stitching is to practice. Before trying your first top stitching job, practice making a straight stitch that eventually curves, then try stitching another seam, just beside that one, and try to keep it exactly parallel. It will get easier each time you try.
