Travel to Cochin, India: Queen of Arabian Sea
If there is any city, which can justly be called the soul of Kerela, in other words the true microcosm of everything that Kerela represents, it is Cochin or Kochi, as it is popularly known. One of the finest natural harbors in the world Kochi has always been a heaven for seafaring visitors. Portuguese, Dutch, Arabs, Chinese and British, all have left their mark here and today Kochi is a fascinating blend of various creeds and cultures. Magnificent architectural monuments, European and Asian, dotting this seaport city blend seamlessly with the local culture and impart it a unique cosmopolitan grace.
Eulogized in travel literature as ‘Queen of the Arabian Sea’, Kochi is the commercial and industrial capital of Kerela. Its natural harbor and strategic location on the east-west trade route make it the state’s ideal trading outpost. The city itself is a series of islands and promontories spread across Arabian Sea and backwaters. An efficient system of ferries connecting different sections of the city provides a magnificent way to travel around. District of Ernakulam, in the east, is where many of the commercial centers and shops are located. Backwaters extend towards east and south and are graced with little islands formed naturally over a period of time by alluvial deposits from rivers that empty into the harbor.
Kochi became India’s first European township when the Portuguese settled here in the 15th century. In AD 1663 the Dutch defeated the Portuguese and wrested control of the city. Over the years Kochi witnessed and played a major part in the power struggles of the Portuguese, the French, the Dutch and finally the British who took over the town in 1795. Kochi is a land awash by history. Here there is no dearth of palaces, structures, streets and stones, with several stories to tell. But despite the long colonial history, the city’s Malayali identity remains as predominant as ever in everything- from religion to art to cuisine to clothes. Folk art forms like the vastly classical Koodiyattam, the spectacularly grand Kathakali, the vehemently religious Krishnanattam and above all the lyrically intense dance of Mohiniattam, dominate the artistic arena. Ayurveda as a means of healing by creating harmony between mind, body and spirit is very popular. Kochi teems with health resorts and institutions, which practice the art of natural healing.
Kochi’s Overseas Legacy
Bolghotty, a picturesque island near Ernakulam is famous for its Bolghotty Palace built by the Dutch in 1744 AD. The two-storey palace, once home to Dutch governor and later to a succession of British governors, is now a hotel with a huge lounge where historical portraits are displayed. Panoramic view of the island makes it an ideal picnic spot. An added attraction is a fine golf course, which lies close to the palace. Ferry ride from Ernakulam is a superb experience.
One of the oldest buildings in Kochi as well as in Kerela is the Mattancherry Palace also known as the Dutch Palace, situated in Ernakulam. Built originally by the Portuguese and presented to the then Raja of Kochi, it was later taken over by the Dutch who vastly improved it through renovation and by making fresh additions to the original structure. The palace is a two storey quadrangular structure, which goes around an inner courtyard containing a temple dedicated to royal deity, Palayannur Bhagavati. Two other temples one enshrining Lord Krishna and the other enshrining Lord Shiva are situated on either side of the palace. Mattancherry Palace is a portrait gallery of kings of Kochi. Centuries old artifacts, dresses, weapons, are on display here. In its center lies the coronation hall where kings held their coronation ceremonies. Magnificent 17th century murals depicting scenes from the great Indian epic of Ramayana grace adjacent rooms.
St. Francis Church, a granite edifice set on quiet lawns, amidst the hustle and bustle of Fort Kochi, 10 KM from Ernakulam, is the oldest church built by Europeans in India. On his third visit to Kerela from Europe by sea in 1524 AD, Vasco da Gama, the Portuguese trader fell ill and died in Kochi. He was buried at St. Francis Church and though fourteen years later his earthly remains were transferred to Portugal, the exact place where his tomb once stood is still marked inside the church and the carved gravestone exists to this day. Close to St. Francis Church is another historic church, the Santa Cruz Basilica. Built originally by the Portuguese, this church was elevated to a cathedral by Pope Paul IV in 1558, but in 1795 it was demolished when British took over Kochi. Almost hundred years later in 1887 Bishop Dom Gomez commissioned a new building at the same place. Pope John Paul II proclaimed the church a basilica in 1984.
British East India Company built the Thalaserry Fort when they established settlement on the Malabar Coast in 1708. Situated 22 kilometers from Kunnur, the square fort, with massive walls, secret tunnels to sea and intricately carved huge doors, stands to this day a testimonial to the British colonial imperialism. Now however, it no longer represents the British military might, these days it is just a monument of historical importance, which tourists like to visit. Jagannatha Temple and Thiruvangadi Shri Rama Swami temple are located close to the fort.
The Jewish synagogue, located at Mattancherry, is the oldest synagogue in India. It was built in 1568 AD and then was rebuilt by the Dutch after it was partially destroyed in the war of 1662. Copper plates recording the grants of privilege bequeathed by various Kochi rulers are preserved at the synagogue as are scrolls of old testament and many gold and silver crowns gifted by various patrons. The synagogue’s clock tower and splendid blue colored hand painted Chinese tiles- none of which resemble each other- are a big draw. The area around the synagogue is a center for spice trade and curio shops.
The Chinese fishing nets of Kochi are the only one of its kind in India. It is believed that traders from the court of Chinese ruler Kabuli khan erected these nets somewhere between 1350 and 1450 AD. Vasco da Gama square is the best place to watch the nets being lowered into the sea and the days catch being brought up. Numerous stalls serving delectable seafood and tender coconuts make the square an ideal place to tantalize ones stomach.
Temples and Festivals
The hugely popular Chottanikkara Temple is located near Ernakulam. Dedicated to Bhagwati, the mother goddess, one of the most popular deities in Kerela, the temple attracts growing number of pilgrims every year. It is a commonly held belief that worshipping the deity here can lead to cure of mental illnesses. The image in the shrine is not fixed to the ground, it stands on loose sand and water offered during prayer ceremonies percolates underground. Near the sanctum of the temple there is a huge tree in which pilgrims drive long nails to testify to their successful exorcism. Close by at Tripunittura is the Poornatrayesa temple, here the Devi is worshipped along with Lord Vishnu and together they are known as the Lakshminarayana. An annual festival is celebrated here in the month of Kumbh (Feb-March), which attracts huge crowds.
Last week of every year is a time of New Year revelry- popularly known as Cochin Carnival- at Fort Kochi. The merry carousal dates back to the Portuguese New Year celebrations held in the colonial era. The carnival has developed as an occasion for youth to enjoy, there is party like atmosphere, and whole Fort Kochi wears jolly look- lots of illumination, glitzy decorations abound and flamboyant games and competitions are arranged. The grand finale of the carnival takes place on the New Year day. A massive procession led by caparisoned elephant, accompanied by garish drums and music, scintillating floats depicting various folk art forms, and cheering crowds goes through the city announcing birth of New Year.
Inhabitants of Kochi do launch their New Year in great style. As if the carnival is not celebration enough, the last week of the year is also time when Indira Gandhi Boat Race is held. Sixteen grandiose snake boats, each paddled by many oars, race neck to neck on the rolling backwaters of Kochi while the air reverberates with cheers of vast multitude of spectators. The race is a breathtaking sight and attracts travelers from around the globe.
Onam, the most important festival of malayalis is celebrated in Kochi with zest and passion. The festival held in the end of August or beginning of September, depending on the position of stars and moon, is celebrated in the memory of the golden reign of King Mahabali, whose spirit is said to visit the Kerela during Onam. It is a time for sports, festivities and ritual celebrations. Boat races, vibrant processions, dances, and music are the hallmarks of this festival.
Beaches and backwaters
For the visitor the most cherished facet of Kochi is the sublime experience of its beaches and backwaters. The panoramic water-world of Kochi can be explored by leisurely moving ferries or by hand paddled boats. Colorfully plumed waddling ducks, flying flocks of seagulls, palm trees dancing to the tunes of breeze, women or children in canoes selling flowers and tender coconuts, fishermen preparing their boats, sunset or sunrise painting the undulating waves in myriad hues, these are some of the truly unforgettable sights with which Kochi seduces its visitors.
Fort Kochi beach is a lotus-eaters ideal paradise. The sun drenched beach is wonderful place to saunter around and if the tropical sun starts feeling hot one can rest in the shade of the innumerable palm trees growing here. Despite concentration of food stalls, resorts, beach huts and souvenir stalls, this beach retains its innocence- akin innocence of dewdrops on leaves at dawn. Cherai beach, which borders Vypeen Island, is wonderful place for swimming. Occasionally dolphins are seen here.
