Vacationing in Vicenza and Its Surroundings
Getting There
International travelers will most likely arrive in Venice. It is recommended that you get a rental car there, but if you’d rather rent one in Vicenza, you can take a bus from Marco Polo airport to Piazzale Roma (you can also do the same from Treviso airport). From there, it is only a short walk to Santa Lucia train station, where you can catch a train to Vicenza. Italian trains are reliable, but they don’t announce the stops, so you will have to be extra diligent when riding the trains to make sure that you get off at your desired destination. Train stations are not marked very clearly, so you may need to ask for assistance on the train.
Since there isn’t much in Nove beyond ceramics shops, it is highly recommended that you make Vicenza your base. We stayed at Hotel Continental, near Vicenza’s town center. A quad standard room cost us 99 euros per night, free buffet breakfast included. The rooms were clean and spacious, but the hotel is located on a busy street, so there was traffic noise. There is parking available free of charge.
Nove is a tiny town that is about half an hour’s drive from Vicenza. It is recommended that you have either a very good map or a GPS system that will help you get to Nove. Since we came from out of town, we found Vicenza very difficult to navigate at first. Once you are on the road to Nove, there are good signs to direct you there.
Pottery Shopping
Italy is a country famous for its ceramics, and Nove produces some of the highest quality ceramics in all of Italy. Nove is a popular shopping destination for Americans because the larger ceramics shops accept US dollars, and they carry brand names such as Lenox and Tiffany, which can be purchased for a fraction of what they cost in the States. Of course, you want to be mindful of shipping costs, if you’re planning to purchase a lot of ceramics.
Two of the largest and most popular shops are La Ceramica VBC and its partner store, Ancora. La Ceramica VBC has a huge selection, and it’s the store that sells the Tiffany and Lenox pieces. A popular choice is from the Butler’s Pantry collection by Lenox, so to save time, look up the collection online and choose what pieces you would like prior to shopping. VBC also has some beautiful faux mosaic pieces that are slightly more expensive, but very colorful and full of Italian flair. At VBC, you can get pottery for the kitchen and the dining room, as well as decorative pieces. Prices for all their pottery are extremely reasonable. (http://www.laceramicavbc.com)
Ceramiche Artistiche Ancora sells a large assortment of hand-painted pieces. Here, as with VBC, you can get a selection of tableware in addition to decorative pieces. Ancora’s products are a bit more unique than VBC’s – no brand names are sold here. As an added bonus, they will also pack any pottery you purchase elsewhere in Nove, if you bring them your purchases. Keep in mind that there may be additional fees for packing and delivery.
Another popular place is Ceramiche Larry S.K.G., where you can have your pottery customized ahead of time. You can order bowls, jars, pitchers, plates, and more, personalized to your specifications. Larry’s also specializes in religion-themed ceramics. There is a nice combination of both tableware and decorative pieces, all at good prices. (http://www.ceramichelarry.it)
Ceramiche Artistiche Marco Pizzato is another fine store, with wonderful hand-painted pieces. Signore Pizzato even allowed us to go back behind the store area and look at the pottery before it’s painted and glazed. Pizzato had some very nice antique-looking pieces, as well as seasonal tableware. The company caters mainly to large scale purchasing – restaurants and catering companies, and the like – but you are able to purchase individual pieces in their small but well-stocked shop. The advantage to this is that they have some unusual pieces that are not normally in typical tableware collections. Prices are very inexpensive. (http://www.ceramichepizzato.com)
For fine ceramics that are mainly decorative, go to DÃ?©cor9. This store is just a bit off the beaten path, and it’s quite a bit more expensive than the other ceramic shops listed, but they have absolutely beautiful pieces. From a distance, we watched one of their artists painting in the studio that is attached to the store. (http://www.decor9.it)
Vicenza – Palladio’s Playground
While you’re pottery shopping so near to Vicenza anyway, you really should spend some time sightseeing in this beautiful city. Vicenza’s claim to fame is that it is the adopted hometown of the famous Italian architect, Andrea Palladio, and his stamp is imprinted everywhere in and around Vicenza. He was born in nearby Padua, but lived most of his life in Vicenza and died there in the late 16th century. Vicenza stands as a memorial of his life, since the most significant buildings in this grand city were designed by him. He also created some of the Veneto region’s most stunning villas, including the Villa Rotunda (also known as the Villa Capra), which is nestled in the hills overlooking Vicenza.
One of Palladio’s most important buildings in Vicenza is the Basilica, or the Palazzo della Regione, which sits majestically in Piazza dei Signora, dominating the square. Palladio was asked to remodel the existing building in 1549, since the structure was in need of repair. The work was not completed until 1614, several years after his death. The Basilica is unique because Palladio designed it with two types of classical columns – Ionic on the upper section, and Doric on the lower section. No two bricks or columns on the structure are alike. The original town hall is located within the upper part of the Basilica (the green roof of the building is part of the original structure). The other part of the structure consists of the loggia, which Palladio wrapped around the original structure for support. Beneath the loggia is an arcade, passages where pedestrians can browse and explore the shops that are housed within it. Entrance to the Basilica is free, and it is open daily except for Monday (closed for lunch and during Sunday afternoons off-season).
In my opinion, Palladio’s most magnificent work in Vicenza is the Teatro Olimpico. Built in 1580, it is the oldest theatre still in operation in Europe. It is also Palladio’s last project; he died before it was completed. Admission to Teatro Olimpico also gives you admission into the Museo Civico across the street, as well as two other museums. We spent quite a bit of time in the theatre, astonished and amazed by the theatre’s interior, particularly the stage. We could not stop admiring it. If you’re lucky, you can catch a performance there during your stay.
Museo Civico, like Teatro Olimpico, is also one of Palladio’s works. The museum currently houses paintings and sculptures from such artists as Bassano, Carpioni, Pittoni, Piazzetta, and Maffei, which are mostly of a religious nature. The painted ceilings are also worth a look, as are the two ancient globes that are on display as you enter.
Vicenza is also known for its stunning churches. The one we picked, Tempio di Santa Corona, is close to Teatro Olimpico. It features magnificent marble work, a beautiful altarpiece by Giovanni Bellini, as well as one of his final masterpieces, the “Baptism of Jesus.” Notable Italian writer, Luigi Da Porto, is buried here. He is the original author of “Romeo and Juliet,” which Shakespeare made famous in his play.
If you are in Vicenza on a Tuesday or Thursday, you may want to browse the flea market in Piazza dei Signori, which runs until early in the afternoon. At the market, you can purchase local goods like cheese, salami, and fish, or you can bargain to purchase clothing and shoes at good prices.
Dining in Vicenza
One fantastic restaurant we found was in Hotel Giada. The food was excellent, the service was exceptional, and the prices were incredibly inexpensive. We had two appetizers, 4 main courses, wine, a Cola Light, a side dish, and four desserts, all for less than seventy euros, including the service charge. Seafood is prominent on most menus in the Veneto area, and Giada’s is no exception. Their pasta with crab is excellent, but if seafood is not your thing, they also have some other delectable pasta dishes and pizza.
While in Italy, you must have gelato. An excellent place we found, just a stone’s throw from Tempio di Santa Corona, was Gelateria Sonia. Their display window is adorned with the most mouth-watering, artful pastries you have ever seen. In addition to gelato and pastries, you can get sandwiches and coffee. It’s a nice treat to rest and refresh you during your sightseeing.
Vicenza is a great side trip from Venice, and essential if you plan to explore the entire Veneto region. Nove is a must if you’re interested in Italian ceramics. Bring your wallet and your sense of adventure. Vicenza and Nove are also fun destinations if you just want a small taste of Italy, and you won’t have to deal with as many crowds as you might find in Rome or Venice. Best of all, you’re not overwhelmed, wondering what you should cram into a few days of sightseeing. Vicenza is small enough that you can easily spend a day or two, and see most of the highlights. Nove is rustic, yet hospitable, and you can spend the entire day exploring the ceramic shops. Make sure to stop and visit both places if you’re passing through Veneto.
