Visit Colonial Williamsburg – The Shoestring and the Whole Shoe!
This treasure of a town is a delight for history lovers. Always changing, yet caught in time, each season offers its visitors a wonderful escape from the fast-paced 21st century. And the best part is that you don’t have to spend a fortune. Unless you want to.
Any Shoestring Afternoon
Just one stroll down Duke of Gloucester Street-the main avenue from one end of town to the Capitol Building-will make you forget any problem you strolled in with. If you’re on a budget, create your own tour. Although you won’t be admitted into most of the buildings, you can enjoy the architecture, the people, and the weather, no matter what the temperature. And, if you need a break, duck inside the shops, where you can purchase mementos of your trip. Perhaps some rock candy, a piece of jewelry, some bayberry soap, or a new hat. Or a guidebook. Then you could really take your own tour over 301 acres of land, of over 500 reconstructed or restored buildings.
Next stop-the Raleigh Tavern Bakery. Appropriately hidden behind the Raleigh Tavern, which isn’t an operating tavern at all today. You’ll need a ticket if you want to see where our forefathers often met and discussed matters of political concern. But that’s all right. You’re sure to visit this town again. For now, march over to the bakery and snack on freshly baked biscuits, sugar cookies, and corn muffins. And their famous gingerbread cookies. They’re delicious, aren’t too sweet, and have a firm texture. And if you get addicted to them, you can order a box from the Colonial Williamsburg Web site. They come individually wrapped and you can stash one in your cabinet for an “I-forgot-about-this” surprise later.
A Shoestring Fall and Winter
During the fall and winter months you might find bonfires to stand next to, along with stands of hot apple cider and hot chocolate. You’ll smell fireplaces in full use and hear twigs and leaves crushing gently underneath the feet of passersby. To get out of the cold, head over to Bruton Parish Church. The concerts here are usually free and you’ll leave feeling warm on the outside and the inside. If there’s no concert, then enjoy the silence, along with the whispers from other excited tourists. And, have fun looking for the nameplates of George Washington, Thomas Jefferson, and Patrick Henry.
If you stop by this grand old town during the Christmas season, you’ll be talking about it well into the new year. As the sun fades, all the windows are lit with candles-which officially starts with the Grand Illumination ceremony-and every door has a wreath on it. These wreaths aren’t typical. They are made from fresh greenery, pomegranates, pinecones, cotton, apples, lemons, ribbons, and more. There’s a contest every year to vote for the most artistic wreath.
And when you’re finished, stop by Merchant’s Square and pick up a sandwich at the Cheese Shop. They are extraordinarily yummy! Then, do some shopping or at least window-shopping before heading home. During the Christmas season, everything’s decorated beautifully and one pass through the Wythe Candy and Gourmet Shop and the Toymaker of Williamsburg will bring back fond memories of childhood.
A Shoestring Spring and Summer
If you happen to meander around the town on a luscious spring or summer afternoon, bring a picnic lunch and find a spot under a huge shade tree on the Palace Green. Then go garden-hunting. Notice the herbs and flowers thriving behind painted fences, and if there’s free admittance, enter and stay a while-a park bench just might be waiting for you.
If theatre is more to your liking, you’ll be interested to know that Williamsburg was the site of the first professional theatre in America. It was built between 1716 and 1718 and sits off the Palace Green. Although the original building no longer stands, archaeologists have uncovered the foundations.
Speaking of theatre, brush up on your Shakespeare. It could pay off for you like it did for my friends and me. One fine evening, as we attempted to ask directions from a costumed interpreter standing guard at the Magazine, he soon discovered we were actors, among other things. With a good-natured smile, he promised free admittance if one of us could deliver a monologue. Quickly stepping up to the plate, T. J., who happened to be performing in Hamlet at the Virginia Stage Company, performed a beautiful Shakespearean monologue. At the end, and to our surprise, the interpreter wasn’t the only one clapping. A little audience had gathered. And with that, we were given free admittance to the Magazine!
The highlight of summer, though, has always been the Fourth of July. Just like the Christmas event, Independence Day in Colonial Williamsburg is a celebration that you will want to experience again and again. Get there early and spend the day. Take one of the many walking tours-which, by the way, are held on a daily basis-and listen as a historical interpreter reads the Declaration of Independence. And, later that evening, gather with everyone else on the Palace Green and enjoy a fabulous fireworks display. If any place will make you feel proud to be an American, it’s here.
Another treat for history lovers is the College of William and Mary, located at the far end of Duke of Gloucester Street. Established in 1693, it is magnificent to behold. It’s the second oldest college in America, and some of its students throughout the years include Thomas Jefferson, James Monroe, and John Tyler. The Sir Christopher Wren Building has special significance: Not only is it believed to have been designed by the Christopher Wren who designed London’s St. Paul’s Cathedral, it is the oldest academic building in the United States that’s been in continuous use. Rebuilt three times because of fire, this grand structure is the home of a chapel, faculty offices, and lecture halls. Make sure your tour of William and Mary includes a stroll the grounds. You’ll want to admire the architecture and landscape before heading back home.
So you see? You don’t have to spend a lot to have a fun time in this history-rich town! In fact, if you pack all your meals and snacks, and have money on hand in case you have to park in a metered lot, you can get by on almost nothing.
A Full Shoestring Day
If you have the time and some extra money, however, add Josiah Chowning’s Tavern to the end of your day. Sit inside or outside under a grapevine arbor. Then order draft ale or root beer, or anything else from their menu, and they’ll treat you to Gambols, a lively celebration of games and sing-alongs. Colonial-style, of course. Their reasonably priced menu consists of “light fare,” such as a Smithfield ham and Gloucester cheese sandwich, pasta “sallet,” hickory-grilled cheeseburger, old-fashioned Brunswick stew, and grilled chicken sallet-all served with chips. If your sweet tooth keeps calling, try the bread pudding, Apple Brown Betty, brownie, or fruit turnover. They also have a special children’s menu that includes the good ol’ peanut butter and jelly sandwich.
While there, you might just get a few surprises. On one particular visit, the Revolutionary War re-enactors were in town. Hundreds of tents were pitched on the lawn, and several of the “soldiers” were making merry with singing and dancing in the tavern. And they stayed in character the whole time. It made stepping back into the past a special treat.
The Whole Shoe
All right. Let’s say you’ve done the research, you’ve budgeted your money well, and now you’re ready to take the ultimate tour of the Colonial Capital. You won’t see everything in a day, so go ahead and plan for a whole weekend-or even longer. I promise there will be so much to do that you’ll never get bored. Make sure you try everything I’ve already mentioned, and then just add on to your trip!
Not sure where to stay? There are several great choices, both on the premises and just outside of town. But . . . if you really want to tour in style, stay at the Williamsburg Inn. It’s where the heads of state stay during their visits here. You could even have a mini-vacation and never leave the hotel. Set in a plush environment, you’ll dine on some of the region’s best cuisine, relax in the spa, workout in the gym or on the tennis courts, take in a game of croquet, and then sip tea by the fire.
If you’d rather get a little bit more colonial, try a room in one of the 36 authentic colonial houses for rent. You’ll really get the feeling that you’re living in another time period. My mom and I tried this for the Fourth of July one year, and it was great. The rooms are full of 18th-century reproductions and antiques, and the scent of bayberry and cloves was heavenly. You can even order room service.
After you’ve chosen your hotel accommodations, take advantage of the special ticket prices offered only to hotel guests. (Make sure the hotel you choose is a participant.) Your ticket to tour Colonial Williamsburg will assure you entry to see the short film, “Williamsburg: The Story of a Patriot.” You’ll also have free use of all shuttle buses, and entry to the Governor’s Palace and Capitol Building.
Did you bring the kids? They are going to have a trip of lifetime! This town specializes in children’s events. They keep the little ones in mind-and even have a Web site called “Kids Zone.” It will help them, ahead of time, to appreciate all that Colonial Williamsburg has to offer.
On your trip to the town, since you have your tickets, see everything each building offers you. When you’re at the Palace, stay and hear a talk and see a demonstration of 18th-century cooking. Also, visit the lovely gardens out back and watch a wheelwright at work. And at Hay’s Cabinetmaking Shop, watch as skilled craftsmen make fine furniture. All over town, there are so many things to learn, see, and appreciate!
Later, if you need a break, take a horse and carriage ride around the town. Then stop by Christina Campbell’s Tavern-George Washington’s favorite inn-for refreshments. Or the Trellis Restaurant and CafÃ?©, which made the “Death by Chocolate” dessert a household name. And, if you really need to rest some more, find a seat in the Kimball Theatre and enjoy either a film or a stage performance.
Shake your legs and then start walking again. Take in as many walking tours as you possibly can. They’re both educational and fun. Some of the tours have included “Women of Williamsburg,” “Bits and Bridle,” “Gardens of Gentility,” and “Other Half,” which addresses the issue of slavery and free blacks in the colonial capital. And, in the evening, try “Legends, Mysteries, and Myths,” a very interesting candlelight tour.
Also of interest are the programs presented by the DeWitt Wallace Decorative Arts Museum, which also houses the Public Hospital. In the 18th century, the hospital served mental patients. Today, the reconstructed building shows the methods of treatment and provides a close look at the stages of treating mental disorders.
If classes are more to your liking, sign up before your visit for Colonial Williamsburg Continuing Education conferences. Taught by experts in their fields, classes include “Working Wood,” “Garden Symposium,” and “Antiques Symposium.” Each conference is held over a period of days and is sponsored by the Colonial Williamsburg Foundation. You’ll leave each session with a better insight into 18th-century thinking, and you just might be able to use some of it in your own contemporary living.
So go ahead. For as long you want, spend some time in the 18th century. Visit Colonial Williamsburg. For more information, visit their Web site at www.colonialwilliamsburg.com or call 1-800-HISTORY to make reservations. And, if you’re going to do the whole shoe, you might as well stay a few days longer and visit nearby Jamestown, Yorktown-and Busch Gardens! You’ll love it!
