Visit Heidelberg, Germany – Town of Enchantment

My first visit to Europe landed me in Heidelberg, Germany and this picturesque town fulfilled all my expectations of historical beauty with all the romance of a fairytale. Europe has always held a special allure for me, with its medieval castles and baroque towns so I looked forward to this trip with high expectations and I was not disappointed. In his book, “A Tramp Abroad”, the well-traveled Mark Twain says about Heidelberg, “I have never enjoyed a view which had such a serene and satisfying charm about it as this one gives”. I have to agree with Mr. Twain’s assessment, as I was enchanted and transported by the serenity of the scene that Heidelberg presents, and not just for the scenery, which is breathtaking, but also for the ambiance that surrounds it.

Lush greenery is everywhere; lining the cobblestone streets, surrounding the Neckar River which the town sits alongside, and completely covering the hills that this town is nestled between. Overlooking the town is the Heidelberg Castle, an architectural monument to a succession of rulers and centuries of use. Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque architectural styles can be found in the various wings of the castle – a reminder of the many eras that this castle has survived. Although portions of the castle have been destroyed through war and natural disaster, much of the original structure is intact and the history surrounding it is fascinating. The cellar of the castle holds what is reportedly the largest wine barrel ever constructed. Holding 58,000 gallons and constructed out of 130 oak trees, the Heidelberg Tun seemed to be a popular attraction, as we were barely able to move around the cellar and climb the stairs over the barrel on our way out due to the crowd. The King’s Hall, which was added in 1934, is currently used for banquets, balls and theater performances. The courtyard serves as a site for musicals, performances and classical concerts. The castle is accessible by car, bus, or foot – my group parked as close as we thought possible and climbed the remaining steps. Although the trek was rigorous, the view at the top was more than worth it – I only wish we had known about the parking outside the castle. For those without transportation and not looking for a vigorous workout, city transportation is easy to find – follow the signs for “schloss” – German for castle.

Even without the majestic attraction that is the Heidelberg Castle, the rustic charm of the town is completely satisfying. The streets are cobblestone and the main street leading to the town square is flanked by a menagerie of storefronts which seem to offer something for everyone. For shopping, options include everything from discount chain stores, such as the increasingly popular clothing store H&M, to boutiques offering brand name couture, to an Irish themed store, to Asian and Middle Eastern imports. Jewelry stores are frequent as well, and my gifts for loved ones included a certain type of amber which I was told came from the hills surrounding Heidelberg. For the connoisseur, gourmet foods and wines, spices and local specialties can be found either on the main street or hidden down one of the small side streets which I found especially enjoyable to explore, with less tourist traffic and small, locally owned shops with authentic goodies to sample. The town square

The food, the wine, the beer – where to begin? I ate at a variety of restaurants during my stay, traditional and not, and found the local food delicious. Traditional food was somewhat what I expected, only tastier with subtle sauces to go along with hearty dishes of rabbit, lamb and veal along with more familiar steak, fish and chicken dishes. Red cabbage, potatoes, bratwurst and sausage are also frequent accompaniments to the main course. Beer is of course plentiful and rich. Dark ales and lagers go down smoothly and taste right with the rich and hearty fare they accompany. If you’re feeling especially daring, you might try the wheat beer. I was in the mood for wine on occasion and sampled a locally made wine which I found surprisingly delicious. I guess I was wrong in thinking Germans only brewed beer.

Speaking of beer, a company sponsored dinner at a brauhaus (beer house) became an unforgettable experience when we were entertained by a traditional band – complete with lederhosen attire and accordion players. The band had the entire banquet hall dancing in the aisles and on tables and singing a German anthem. Needless to say, if you have occasion to see a traditional band perform, the experience is one worth having. If the scenery and ambiance of the day lended itself to serenity, the nightlife brought people together in a happy melee of singing, dancing and enjoying life. Bon vivant seems a fitting term for the general mood of Heidelberg, as if the historical surroundings allow people to relax the pace of the present and enjoy life a little more thoroughly.

There are many other attractions that this town has to offer; the 600 year old Church of the Holy Ghost, the castle gardens and fountains, “Philosopher’s Road” – a meandering trail through the hills, and especially the old Karl Theodor Bridge. At night the castle illuminates the surrounding hills and the river, and the view from the bridge is splendid – almost overwhelming.

“One thinks Heidelberg by day–with surroundings–is the last possibility of the beautiful; but when he sees Heidelberg by night…he requires time to consider upon the verdict.” Mark Twain

Heidelberg is located in Baden-Wurttemberg, near Mannheim and sits on the Neckar River.