Visiting the Great American West
I was rather taken aback, considering that he had never offered a first time. I hadn’t even known it was an option. I muttered something non-committal and sat back to ponder his question. What’s to ponder? Plenty. By not accompanying him on his fiftieth birthday trip, I would have the house to myself for two weeks. I wasn’t planning any parties, contrary to popular belief. I just wondered what it would be like to be on my own for two weeks.
Luckily for the fate of this article, I decided to go. Along the way, I began to pick up bits and pieces of information that I wished had been available beforehand. This is your inside track to what to do and what not to do when traveling out west.
My trip began on a Friday evening in Marietta, Ohio. I made it as far as Indianapolis before deciding to stop for the night, and I made my first discovery. When traveling cross-country, check out (and check in to) a Holiday Inn Express. I don’t recommend HI Express because of the clean rooms, free internet, or awesome breakfast. I recommend Holiday Inn Express because of the showers.
The revolutionary ThinkSmart shower head is every bit as wonderful as is claimed in the commercials. I could have spent weeks under the warm spray, which reminded me of a summer rainstorm. The perfect amount of water is released, and the temperature never changes. The curved shower curtain rod lends a sense of space. Also, an additional hand-held sprayer, available at some locations, is great on stiff muscles from driving.
My first destination was Mt. Rushmore. When I first saw the monument, my reaction was “I thought it was bigger than that!” But don’t let first impressions deceive you. Each face is actually 60 feet tall. The best time to see Mt. Rushmore is in the evening, when there is a presentation and lighting ceremony. Skip the presentation, but make sure you see the monument at night, as the lights make it even more impressive than in daylight.
Only a few miles away and relatively un-promoted is the Crazy Horse Monument. When it is complete, the mountain will show a three dimensional representation of Crazy Horse on horseback. The monument is completely privately funded through donations and admission prices. What is truly impressive is that the entire Mt. Rushmore monument could fit into the just the head of the horse in the enormous Crazy Horse monument.
If you plan on spending several days in the area, an interesting side trip is to take Highway 16A, a nationally acclaimed motorcycle route, down into Custer National Park. This is a great wildlife viewing area. On the way back, notice that each of the three tunnels is designed to provide a stunning view of Mt. Rushmore. Another trip is north, to visit Deadwood and Lead, infamous gold and gambling towns. You can still gamble, as every other building contains a casino. The shopping is good for those who like to gain something while losing their money, instead of simply throwing it away.
From Mt. Rushmore, I moved further west, to the famous Cody, Wyoming. The most beautiful, (and slowest) route is to cross the Bighorn Mountains on the Bighorn Scenic Byway. There are many places to spot wildlife, including moose. When you reach Cody, the Cody Nite Rodeo is an exciting event, but remember to bring cushions, because it often lasts for five to six hours. For those more interested in history, check out the Buffalo Bill Cody Museum, which actually contains five separate museums. Your admission price covers two days, as it is impossible to see everything in one day.
After seeing what I could of Cody in a day, I moved on to Yellowstone National Park, crossing the spectacular Beartooth Scenic Byway . An important consideration when going to Yellowstone is how far apart everything is. The best choice is to stay in the middle portion of the park, as it takes nearly an entire day to drive the figure eight that comprises the park. While driving, look for groups of people pulled off on the side of the road. The bigger the group, the rarer the animal.
Don’t get too excited about your first buffalo. There will be hundreds more, and they often stand in the middle of the road, obstructing traffic. Be aware of this when making reservations for dinner or activities. I missed a horseback ride because the buffalo were swimming the river (yes, buffalo can swim) and I had to wait an hour for the gawkers to move. If you plan on eating dinner, keep in mind that all of the restaurants require reservations, while the cafeterias and grilles do not. They do close at nine, however.
The fishing in Yellowstone is great, especially in the northwest in the Lamar Valley. This is also a good place to spot wolves, grizzly bears, and even mountain lions. If you follow the road through the Lamar Valley and out of the park, Cooke City, Montana, is a good place to stop for lunch at an outdoor caf�©. The mountains are breathtaking, and the breeze will feel wonderful after the heat in the valley.
Another important rule for Yellowstone, especially in the early summer is to be back in your vehicle or room no later than eight p.m. The mosquitos are fierce in the evenings, especially around the lake. Make sure you allow at least three days to see everything. Only three percent of Yellowstone visitors ever make it off the main roads, and fifty percent visit Old Faithful and then leave. Explore everything, it is all beautiful. But bring a book for the evenings, as there is no tv in the rooms.
Jackson Hole, in Grand Teton National Park, is only a short drive south of Yellowstone, and your admission fee is good for both parks. Much of the park is a huge valley containing little except sagebrush. Also, every scrap of river front land is private, and it is nearly impossible to fish without signing up for a guided float trip. The shopping, however, is world class. Also, watch for celebrities. Many have homes in the area, including Mic Jagger and Vice President Cheney, whose home is on the famous Pines golf course.
Other than shopping, there is little to do in Jackson Hole. One thing that is an utter must-do is a float or white water rafting trip down the Snake River. The float trips, lasting three to four hours, often provide glimpses of bald eagles, osprey, and occasionally the elusive golden eagle. The calmest stretch of water is between Moose and Jackson Hole itself, but there are several float companies operating in different locations. I went to Dornan’s, in Moose, and the trip was one of my favorite parts of the vacation. Ask for Eric as your guide: he has cookies, and his stories are great, whether or not you decide to believe them.
The last destination on my trip was Rocky Mountain National Park. Before you enter the park, make sure you drink plenty of water, as altitude sickness can be a real problem. Estes Park, the town situated at the foot of the Rocky Mountains, contains a plethora of shopping. My favorite was the Science and Nature Shop, where I found a Megalodon shark tooth for sale.
The most popular area in the park is Trail Ridge Road, built by the CCC during Roosevelt’s presidency. The highest road in the United States, Trail Ridge provides spectacular views and opportunities for snowball fights well into July. At the top is the Trail Ridge Visitors Center, which allows you to eat a chili dog at twelve thousand feet.
Leaving the Rocky Mountains behind, I set out for home. Most of this twenty hour trip was spent reviewing my notes, but I did raise my head long enough to discover a stop worth making in Kansas. The Tower, near the Colorado border on US 70, claims to overlook six states. The claim is rather weak, but The Tower could very well be the most interesting thing in the entire state of Kansas.
Hopefully one day you, too, will set out of a tour of the great west. It is the trip of a lifetime, and I know you will enjoy it as much as I have. Take lots of film, see as much as you can, and always drive west in the morning.
