Weimar Germany is Wunderbar

When one hears the word Weimar, the first thing that usually comes to mind is the famous and ill-fated Weimar Republic, that heady and turbulent era between 1919 and 1933 in which art, experimentation and hyperinflation dominated in inter-war Germany. Weimar holds for Germany a much deeper and significant historical meaning, however. It was during Weimar’s golden age, referred to in Germany as the “Weimar classic” period, in which Goethe wrote Faust and Schiller wrote his famous plays and poems and gave the city its name. J.S. Bach also lived and worked in Weimar, though at a somewhat earlier period, and later, other great personalities were also closely connected to the name of Weimar: Wieland and Herder, Franz Liszt, Richard Strauss, Friedrich Nietzsche, Walter Gropius, Lyonel Feininger, and the list goes on.

Of course the dark and frightening barbarism of the Third Reich, with the infamous Buchenwald prison camp just a few miles away, as well as the long decades of oppressive communist dictatorship have also left their indelible marks upon Weimar’s historic image, as well.

Situated in Thuringia roughly 30 kilometers to the east of Erfurt, Weimar is in many ways the cultural center of Germany. Designated City of European Culture by the UNESCO in 1999, this modest city of 62,000 inhabitants holds an anything but modest place in German cultural history. Strolling through the tree-lined streets of Weimar, visitors are quick to notice the storybook, small-town feel to it. Obviously built with the pedestrian in mind (most streets are closed to automobile traffic), it is easy to imagine how Weimar’s many famous citizens lived and worked here during the 18th and 19th centuries, and stopping by for a leisurely visit at the Goethe House only deepens this impression.

Goethe spent most of his professional life living and working in the library and study of this beautiful Baroque building. Built in the early 18th century, it has been carefully renovated and kept with meticulous German care and provides a fascinating look into the life and times of one of Germany’s greatest intellectuals. And once your interest has been sparked here, don’t miss the opportunity to visit the Goethe National Museum located directly next door.

Or one of the museum’s structures, I should say. The Goethe National Museum is actually made up of several buildings, and one of the most interesting is the Schiller House. Just a few steps away from the Marktplatz, or old market square, it was here where the famous dramatist lived until his death in 1805. The great Romantic Schiller, famous for his passionate desire to ennoble the character through art, is best known for his influential dramatic works – and many of these manuscripts being on display here.

Another nearby stop is the Stadtschloss Museum of Contemporary Art. This sprawling Baroque palace, with its large courtyard which is often used for popular open-air concerts, has attracted a wide range of European art and is continually updating its varied exhibit offerings. The Stadtschloss also offers a beautiful view to the woods and nearby Ilm River. Other must-sees museums, all in the immediate vicinity, include the Bauhaus Museum, the Liszt House and the Nietzsche Archive and the famous Anna Amalia Bibliothek (recently damaged in devastating fire), just to name a few.

Of course outside the city is a dark reminder of a very recent, grimmer past. Just a few kilometers from town, the Buchenwald concentration camp and its two massive memorials can be easily reached and viewed.

Weimar is very easy to get to, the most convenient way I find being by train. There are several fast connections connecting the city with Berlin, Leipzig and Erfurt. And it is an even easier city to walk through; the main places of interest all being centrally located and all very accessible.

There are a handful of large hotels in town and many smaller ones, but even the cheapest places are clean and secure. Have a look at the Hotel Villa Hentzel (Bauhausstr. 12) or the Pension Savina (Meyerstr. 60), for instance, if you want to spend a few nights and take in all of this culture in style. Don’t be intimidated by the thought of taking a daytrip, however. The short train ride from any of the cities mentioned above will certainly leave you with more than enough time to get a good feel for this wonderful place.

But what ever you do, don’t pass up the chance to stop by and visit Weimar while on your travels through Germany. It’s a German “classic” of the first degree.

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