Why You Should Visit Hilton Head, SC

The first time I drove across the bridge from the South Carolina mainland to Hilton Head Island (HHI), I knew I was entering a little stretch of paradise. The blue and green expanse of the estuary sparkled in the late afternoon sun and palmetto trees surrounded by native flowers filled the median where the bridge touched down on the island. Lush tropical vegetation bordered the bike paths on both sides of the road.

You may have visited islands before, but HHI is unique. Of course, it has miles of white sand beaches, palm trees, and a huge variety of plants that thrive in the warm, humid climate. But, the vegetation also includes ancient live oaks protected by island covenants. A land owner cannot remove or trim any live oak on the island without permission. These massive shade trees have wide-spread branches hung with Spanish moss like green-gray tinsel on a bloated Christmas tree. It would be a crime in more ways than one to harm them.

An important part of the history of HHI was the cultivation of a plant called long-staple or “sea island cotton”. This variety of cotton is characterized by longer strands of fibers than mainland cotton, causing it to be unusually soft when woven into clothing. In the 1920’s a boll weevil epidemic virtually wiped out this major industry on the islands. But, you can still buy sea island cotton shirts and blouses at some of the specialty shops on the island.

Gullah were native people from the west coast of Africa who were brought as slaves to HHI in the 1800s to prepare the land for cultivation of cotton and indigo (a plant used to produce blue dye). This unique Gullah culture is a combination of West African (Angola), European, and Native American heritage. The Gullah culture is a vibrant part of island life. Concerts, festivals, seminars, cuisine and tours help to perpetuate this culture that has its own unique language, folklore, and oral tradition. Visitors can also learn about the Gullah culture on two-hour narrated heritage tours. You can buy Gullah artwork, including sea island cotton prints, at De Gullah Creations, at the Mall at Shelter Cove. During the summer, you can learn about Gullah life at the weekly Gullah Campfire Storytelling at the Sea Pines Forest Preserve, hosted by a native islander who will greet you with “We glade fa see onah.” (“We are glad to see you.”).

The word, plantation, conjures up memories of glistening bodies toiling under the southern sun while the privileged sipped mint juleps on their porches that wrap around antebellum mansions. This was actually the case, and you can see remnants of irrigation ditches dug by Gullah workers through swamp land. Nature trails take you through these swamps where you can see exotic birds, alligators, turtles, and snakes from elevated board walks.

Another unique feature of HHI is its connection to smaller, secluded Daufuskie Island, one nautical mile from HHI. You can take the ferry to one of the last undeveloped barrier islands on the East Coast. Some permanent residents live in private, gated communities. Other native islanders live in mysterious-looking houses partially hidden in the dense jungle of the island. You can tour much of the island in rented golf carts either on your own or with a reputable tour guide for a more in-depth experience. You can drive your cart past a two-room school where author, Pat Conroy, taught island children for one year.

First- time HHI visitors, eager to explore this haven of natural beauty, may be surprised to learn that much of the island is inaccessible to non-residents. Plantations are private, gated communities behind which stand multi-million dollar homes, the most expensive built on coveted oceanfront property amid stately live oaks. While you can visit many of the restaurants, shops, and golf courses, the residential areas are off-limits unless a plantation resident or real estate agent provides a guest pass. Celebrities like historical novelist John Jakes and professional golfer, Stan Smith, have homes in the plantations.

The exception to the exclusion rule is Sea Pines Plantation, where anyone can enter after paying a $5.00 daily gate fee. Sea Pines, the first plantation built on HHI, was the result of visionary Charles Fraser who pioneered the modern plantation concept, now used in the U.S. and abroad. Sea Pines also is home to the Heritage Classic Golf Tournament held annually in April. You will recognize the signature red-and-white striped Harbour Town Lighthouse near the 18th green of the Harbour Town Golf Links.

You can find this stretch of paradise in the southeast corner of South Carolina, the Lowcountry. Follow I-95 South to exit 8. Thirty minutes later you will be on the bridge to Hilton Head Island.